Thanks to Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis, northern France is often reduced to funny accents and rain. But just three hours from Brussels, the Baie de Somme proves otherwise: it’s the perfect spot to blow the cobwebs away! Windswept walks, crooked little villages, plenty of seafood, and a dash of French chaos to keep things interesting.
Important context before we pitch the tent (mentally and literally): we arrived here at the end of September. While we were blessed with perfect weather, tourism had clearly already packed its bags and gone home. If you’re not chasing the summer crowds, this is your moment.
That said, travelling off-season in France comes with its own charming rulebook, written in invisible ink and changed daily. Restaurants, for example, operate on what we lovingly call French freestyle mode. After 8 p.m.? Don’t even think about walking in somewhere casually. Lunch? Best planned before 2 p.m. Reservations? Bwah. Sometimes yes, sometimes no, sometimes decided on the spot while you’re standing there. And yet, we ate wonderfully everywhere!
We landed on this campsite (https://www.campingleboisdepins.com) thanks to friends, and they were right. It’s small, cozy, unmistakably French, wonderfully quiet, and right on the coast. You’re safely away from the buzz of Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, but still close enough to stroll into nearby Cayeux-sur-Mer whenever you feel like a croissant, a glass of wine, or a bit of local life.
Time for a list of favorites!
Cayeux-sur-Mer
How to describe it… a little rough around the edges, slightly run-down in places, but that’s exactly where its charm lives. It feels very local. Cayeux is famous for its long line of colorful beach huts, though warning: by the end of September, most owners are already packing them up for winter. We managed to catch a few still standing, but even better was watching the owners dismantle them together, turning it into a full-on social event.
La Cabine de Mouné (Cayeux-sur-Mer)
The perfect spot to slow down, grab a drink, and watch beach life unfold. From morning to evening, this place buzzes in the best possible way. Sitting here feels like front-row seats to seaside theatre.
Restaurant Le Petit Baigneur (Cayeux-sur-Mer)
Friday night? No luck, already at 7:30 pm we were told: “Fin de la saison, madam..." Saturday, however, redemption! We snagged a table near the door and witnessed pure chaos: tables accepted, refused, mysteriously reserved, decisions made entirely on vibes. Big recommendation: Moules à la crème façon poulette!
Important walking tip
Do not walk from the campsite to Cayeux via the beach. Unless you enjoy walking on endless stone. Big stones. Bigger stones. Choose the dune path instead.
From Cayeux to Ault
This walk is doable along the beach (and return inland). Ault rewards you with a charming Grande Rue and breathtaking views of the dramatic white chalk cliffs. Not in the mood to walk? Also absolutely lovely by bike.
La Buvette du Mouton (Saint-Valery-sur-Somme)
Think La Cabine de Mouné, but in Saint-Valery. Located at the end of the promenade where the Somme meets the sea. Saint-Valery itself is worth a wander, though noticeably busier on a sunny autumn day. From here, you can walk straight into the nature reserve, where the tides completely transform the landscape. Low tide and high tide feel like two different worlds.
Le Hourdel
Another must-stop, both at low tide and high tide, right where the Somme flows into the Channel. Yes, it can get busy thanks to seal spotting, but walk just a little further along the beach and voilà. Truly impressive how dramatically the scenery shifts with the tides.
Le Crotoy
On our way back, we crossed the bay to Le Crotoy. Like Saint-Valery, it’s more touristy, but still worth a final stroll. Bonus points for the Moules-frites at Le Petit Moulier, just outside the town center, the perfect farewell snack.
One last leg stretch: Cap Gris-Nez
In need of a stretch during the drive home (& already scouting locations for a future camping trip in northern France)? We squeezed in a little hike from the cliffs of Cap Gris-Nez down to Plage du Châtelet and back.
In short: fewer crowds, shifting tides, delicious food (eventually), and places that feel alive precisely because they’re a little imperfect. Can’t wait until autumn? I bet you’ll find the very same conditions in spring.
