One of the longer driving days of our Northern Italy road trip lies ahead, coming from Lake Garda. But no dolce road trip is complete without a proper dose of Italian coastal vibes.
I’ll admit it, my main goal was simply to catch a glimpse of Liguria. Part curiosity, part philosophy: finding a stretch of Italian coastline that’s still reasonably doable by car from Belgium. Once again, our search for the authentic steered us away from Cinque Terre and straight toward Chiavari.
Is Chiavari the prettiest coastal town? Absolutely not. It’s a bit bigger, a little rough around the edges. But what it lacks in postcard perfection, it more than makes up for in pure Italian lifestyle. This is a place where you don’t just visit, you blend in, linger, and slowly fall into the rhythm of everyday Ligurian life.
Tips and tricks for a 3-day stay:
We settled into a cozy Airbnb in the hills above Chiavari. Pros? Peace, quiet, and views that make you forget your legs hurt from the mountains. Cons? You need the car to reach the coast. For a future visit focused on beaches, I’d probably pick somewhere within walking distance of the sea. But, big shout-out to Beatrice, our host, an absolute star!
Chiavari itself is perfect for a late afternoon wander after a morning or midday beach visit. Grab a coffee at Gran Caffé Defilla, then wander left behind the café via Via Rivarola, through narrow, winding alleys. Along the way, you’ll find Antica Forno bakeries with incredible Italian goodies: ham, focaccia, and more. Il Trofiaio is the place to score fresh pasta and sauces. Don’t leave without tasting the pesto, Liguria’s pride and joy.
What about the rich & famous in Portofino? Same story as Cinque Terre: skip it. We passed by by accident during a steep hike through the hills between Portofino and Camogli. Sure, the bays are beautiful, but the crowds completely steal the charm.
Then there’s Camogli... oh oh Camogli! Love at first sight. Busy? Absolutely, but it’s the chaotic Italian kind of busy. Our first stop: Pasta Fresca Fiorella, the local pesto hotspot. Our Komoot-guided hike? Completely misjudged. Longer and tougher than expected. We rushed toward Camogli just to get our pesto fix... and just in time snagged the last plate, plus a little takeaway stash for later. Flip-flops on, walking shoes off, we explored the town. The vibe grabbed us completely, and our return to Chiavari got postponed.
On the way back, we stumbled upon a local seaside food festival. Children rolled pasta and served dishes to support the Red Cross. One of the moms quickly realized we spoke the same language as a Dutch expat neighbor. He filled us in on Camogli: apparently, it’s a favorite escape for Milanese locals. Pure Italian chaos ensued: handing over your receipt and trusting one of the kids would bring your plate, and yes, somehow, the food found us.
Another local favorite is Sestri Levante. Also busy (maybe even busier than Camogli), thanks to the long sandy beach lined with colorful Italian beach chairs. The charm here is the two bays: one sprawling and bustling, the other small and tucked between buildings, where securing a spot for your towel feels like a small victory.
Extra tip from Beatrice: Cavi di Lavagna, a quieter beach option. Typical Italian coastline: road, train, pebbles... but the colorful beach huts like Bagni Mignon make up for it. If you want relaxing beach vibes with a bit of infrastructure, this is your spot. Parking can be tricky, but weaving through the narrow alleys behind Bagni Mignon gives you a real taste of Ligurian life: a more peaceful alternative base for a Liguria trip.
And one last nugget of wisdom: choose your hours wisely for beach and town visits! Timing can completely change your experience.
